Review: Cafe Continental Is A Neighbourhood Gem In Stalybridge — And The Steak Is Simply Superb
As a professional food writer and editor, the list of places I want to dine at tends to get longer by the day. Thanks to the seemingly relentless online hype, Cafe Continental in Stalybridge has been on that list for a long time. And based on my recent visit, I wish I’d gone sooner. This stylish European-style bistro is a neighbourhood gem in the true sense of the term.
The seasonal menu at Cafe Continental is a bit dangerous, because it’s essentially full of dishes you just really, really want to eat. Steak tartare with egg yolk and salt and vinegar shoestring crisps? Crispy ox cheek lasagna with porcini mushrooms and San Marzano tomato sauce? Beef short rib with bone marrow sauce and guindilla butter? Yes please. Sadly, I had none of those things, because the other options were equally enticing. Next time. And there definitely will be lots of next times.
So what did we eat? Plump lamb chops (£26) were pink and outrageously tender, accompanied by a punchy, piquant and aromatic herb salad that readied the palate for the next bite. Genuine gnaw-the-bones stuff. A luxurious lobster rice dish (£40) was decadent and delicious. A summery salad of huge butter beans, San Marzano tomatoes, salty capers and sharp shallots (£8) was an unexpected delight that I’m determined to try to recreate at home. But a real star? The steak, of course.
The ribeye steak at Cafe Continental is a beautiful beefy treat
A good quality cut of beef, expertly cooked with care, is the ultimate treat for steak fans. And the hefty 500-gram ribeye (£55) at Cafe Continental is worth travelling for. Perfectly rested and sliced against the grain, this medium-rare steak was outrageously juicy and robustly beefy with a perfect char from the grill. Pure delight with every bite.
Even the best steaks can be enhanced with the right sauce, and the béarnaise at Cafe Continental deserves a special shout-out. Rich, velvety, and beautifully balanced with just the right amount of fragrant tarragon, I could have drunk this sauce straight from the bowl. I restrained myself. But spooned over the steak, it was pure heaven.
A great steak deserves some good spuds, and a side of potato galettes (£13) provided a gloriously golden, crisp accompaniment. Topped with punchy aioli and umami-rich pecorino, these tubers were sensational. We couldn’t finish the portion, but the staff kindly boxed them up so we could take them home. Served alongside some buttery scrambled eggs and smoky bacon the next morning, I had a truly magnificent breakfast. Would I recommend Cafe Continental? Unreservedly. Stalybridge is lucky to have this place. The only negative? It’s not in my neighbourhood, sadly. I wish it were.
Disclaimer: I booked a table at Cafe Continental as a paying guest, and paid in full for all the food we ordered.
